Getting ready for the Denton, NC rally

I ran out of time to get the new Jeep ready to take to the rally. In order to take this one, there were a couple of things that I had to get done. For one, I never finished installing the military fuel pump. The other thing was to adjust the valves since it was pretty noisy (compared to the “new” Jeep) at last year’s rally.

To finish up the fuel pump install, I had to bend and install the 5/16 x 20″ vacuum line and 1/4 x 20″ vacuum line that I bought the last time I was working on it. The 5/16″ line is the “S” shaped line that runs from the back side of the fuel pump, over the top and curves around to the main vacuum line block at the front of the engine. I tried a 12″ line the first time, but needed 14″. They don’t sell a 14″, so the next size is 20″! It was a pain working with all of that extra material, but I got it done.

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The second line was the 1/4″ one that runs from the bottom side to the wiper line tee. 20″ was the perfect size.

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I only adjusted the intake valves because they are easy to get to, made the most noise, and I didn’t have a replacement gasket. They were set at around .018″ which is factory setting – too noisy for me, so I adjusted them to .015″. The other Jeep had them set at .014″. I removed the plugs and used my compression gauge to find TDC, and painted the notch in the pulley so that I could see it easier. I adjusted them in order, then went back and double checked.

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After I put everything back together, I had to go pull the batteries out of the other Jeep. I went ahead and serviced them while they were out. As soon as I fired it up I could tell that it was much quieter! I pulled out of the shop and went for a ride.

I drove around for about 10 minutes and as I was pulling into the driveway, the car behind me blew their horn! I knew this could mean one of two things – either they were saying “wow, cool Jeep!”, or something was wrong. When I pulled up at the shop, I used my trusty old brake pedal holder (a 1x6x24″) to hold the brake pedal down while I checked the brake lights – THAT was the problem! I did a little troubleshooting and finally used my 1″ socket and long extension to remove the switch. I checked it with the continuity tester on the multimeter – it worked intermittently. In order to get this thing finished up, I went ahead and pulled the one off of the other Jeep for the time being. It was a PITA to get off because the rubber boot was larger than the switch body and the socket wouldn’t fit over it. I ended up using some 4″ vise grips to loosen it because that is all that would fit in the space. I checked it with the multimeter before I installed it – PROBLEM SOLVED! I’ll order a new one if I can’t find a good used one at the rally.

I took it for another test drive (after checking it’s function with the brake holder) and put it up until Monday. I’ll give it and the truck a bath then, since that will be my last day off before the rally.

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WOW – 55,000 veiws!

That’s AMAZING! I never would’ve thought that my page would ever see this much traffic. This many views makes me think that I might be doing something right. I hope that this blog will continue to be of some help to everyone. Even though I have a new project, THIS Jeep will continue to be a project also and I will update this blog whenever I do something to or with it.

My new blog 1964 USMC M38a1 Rebuild will obviously be updated more often because I am actively working on rebuilding it to “Motor Pool Ready” condition.

Thank you for the support and don’t forget to hit the “Follow” button on the new blog also!

 

New blog for USMC Jeep

OK, so I really couldn’t integrate a bunch of new posts into this old blog on the new page(the only explanation I got , in a nasty tone, was “this is a blog site, not a website”. So I started a new blog titled “1964 USMC M38a1 Rebuild”. You can find this blog by clicking the link at the end of this entry. Don’t forget to click the “Follow” button so that you will get an email when I add new entries to the blog.

1964 USMC M38a1 Rebuild

Halfway done with the fuel pump

I had a chance to stop by the local NAPA to get the rest of the parts I needed. I got 1′ of 1/4″ copper tubing for the main vacuum line because it is easier to bend without kinking and doesn’t really need a steel one. I also picked up a 20″ x 3/16″ brake line and elbow for the other vacuum line coming from the wiper tee. And lastly, I picked up 2-1/8″MIP x 1/4″FIP fittings for the flex fuel line and main vacuum line hookups. I picked up the 1/4″ close nipple at Lowes.

I screwed the 1/4″ nipple on the female end of the flex hose and screwed it into the main fuel line shutoff valve – tightened down with a 1/2″ stubby wrench. I screwed the elbow into the fuel line inlet and connected the male end to it.

Next, I moved on to the main copper vacuum “S” line. Guess what? It is 5/16″,  NOT 1/4″! Plus, you will need 13″, if not 14″, to make a neat “S” bend. Alrighty then – on to the other vacuum line. Guess what? It is 1/4″, NOT 3/16″!

Well at least I accomplished something today – I got the fuel hooked up! I pumped the primer handle a few times to fill the line, jumped in, set the choke and throttle and turned her over. After a few seconds, she fired right up. I had to plug the vacuum line to get a good idle of course. Well, I guess I’ll stop by the parts store on the way home tomorrow and hopefully get the CORRECT parts this time! Note to self: 1/4″x 20″ steel line,  5/16″x 14″ line (copper or steel), whatever size elbow fits the 1/4″ line.

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Got started on MY fuel pump

I finally had a little bit of spare time (and good weather) to get started on installing MY military fuel pump. I think I spent more time removing the old rubber fuel lines and hard lines than I spent installing the new pump. They were all formed to the barbed fittings and did NOT want to come off – I ended up cutting one of them.

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One of the problems I THOUGHT I had was a bad fuel pump lobe on the cam, so while the pump was off I checked it. Turns out that it was good and smooth! Go figure. I don’t know what I was looking at when I installed the civvy pump back in 2012.

I put some assembly lube on the fuel pump foot before I installed it on the engine. Midwest sent 2 gaskets with the pump, so I put black RTV on the block, a gasket, RTV on both sides of the spacer, gasket, then RTV on the pump body. I used the LONG hex body bolt on the left side and the SHORT hex body bolt on the right (because a long one wouldn’t fit behind the primer lever). I used the bolts to hold all of the gaskets and spacer together long enough to start them in the block. I used a 1/4″ ratchet with a deep well 1/2″ socket on the left and a standard socket on the right, but had to tighten it up with a stubby wrench.

Moving on to connecting the lines. The original 1/4″ steel line going to the carb was still in use with the civvy pump – it was just bent 90 deg. So I installed the 1/4″ elbow in the pump, bent the line back and tightened it up. Unfortunately, that is all that I was able to do today. I will have to stop by the auto parts place to pick up a 20″ piece of 3/16″ steel line and elbow for the vacuum line to w/s wiper tee, a 1/4″ elbow and a 1/4″ male to male adapter for the flex fuel line, and a 1/4″x 12″ steel line and elbow for the manifold to pump vacuum line.

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One last thing that I did (that is bugging the crap out of me), is to shorten the rubber hose running from the valve cover bell to the PCV valve. I had to put the bell in the vise and apply heat to get the elbows to move. I know that it STILL isn’t correct, but until I can look for the correct fittings it will have to do. Those hose clamps make it look really bad! My sealing job on the bell looks bad also, but the way I do it never leaks.

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More parts

I am almost finished buying the parts I know I will need when I rebuild my engine. I know that I am going to be replacing the valve guides and at least one exhaust valve. I started looking around for a replacement valve, but couldn’t find one like I had (different lock cutout for the roto valve system). I finally located one at one of the main online jeep parts dealers. BUT, they wanted $23 + shipping – FOR 1 VALVE! 

I located a pair of NOS Willys valves in the original tube on eBay for $10, but they were in Italy. So I contacted the seller. He said he would ship to the US for $18. By the time we established this,  someone had already used Buy It Now.  So I contacted the seller again – he said he had more and would list them. When he listed them I noticed that the price had doubled to $20 – and used the same picture.  What the hell, still cheaper than buying 2 valves from the US – including shipping! Anyhow, I received the package today,  and this is what I received! 

BTW, there are 2 valves in the NOS Willys tube also!  That’s right,  I got  4 NOS Willys valves, delivered gym Italy, for $40! It would’ve cost  $40 to get just 1 valve delivered in the US! That is ridiculous – price gouging. Now I can do it right and replace all of my valves and guides when I rebuild my engine. 

I guess the next thing I need to do is find a machine shop to check the block and do what needs to be done.  Then I can order my rings (hopefully I won’t have to buy pistons) and bearings. I guess I could go ahead and order the gasket set and water pump. The head has already been rebuilt,  waiting to be installed.