A few things accomplished

I got motivated on Thursday. I went out to the shop and tore the master cylinder back apart and reassembled it with the NOS kit that I ordered and the new copper washers and y fitting nut. I bench bled the master cylinder to get all the air out. I installed the master cylinder under the Jeep and hooked the lines up.

I assembled the pedal assembly next – by memory. Turned out that you have to install the shaft through the bearing BEFORE installing the key and clutch pedal arm! So I had to take it apart to do just that. Next, MAKE SURE that you install it in the right side – that would be with the clutch rod arm on the INSIDE (right side) of the bearing. Had to take it back apart to do this! Next, you CAN’T install the shaft with the bearing bolted to the frame – with the exhaust installed. Then I FINALLY consulted the picture I took for reference. I worked the pedal assembly in place and bolted it down. Went back to the bench and saw the pedal shaft brace laying there. Wiggled back under the Jeep and held the bracket up – DAMN! The master cylinder had to come back off to put the brace on since the master cylinder bolts hold it on! I ended up completely removing the brake lines and bolts to install the brace. The brace bent enough to fit over the end of the pedal shaft.

That’s when I noticed something else that didn’t look right. I put the pedal assembly together according to the reference pic I took, but the washer on the right side of the brake pedal arm wasn’t supposed to be there – the order of parts is cotter pin, washer, brake pedal arm, brace, then cotter pin. The other washer was supposed to be on the outside of the bearing. Anyhow, I fixed the washer/brace problem with the assembly installed. The pedals lined up with the holes in the floor pan better than ever. The new bearing was very tight, but after a little grease was added, it worked great! The used brake pedal arm I bought was just that – USED. I am going to have to buy an NOS one to get rid of the play.

WP_20160329_17_15_35_Pro

I pushed the brake pedal and it slowly went to the floor. Tried to pump it up, but got the same results. Finally, I looked under the Jeep and saw a puddle of brake fluid – DAMN! I tightened up the lines and y fitting nut – didn’t help. I removed the brake lines and looked into the y fitting – the mating surfaces had indentions in them. Maybe that was causing it to leak like a sieve?

Lastly, I decided to adjust the valves and timing. I pulled the valve cover and spark plugs, then rolled it over to #1 TDC. It was a little loose, so I adjusted it. Put #2 on TDC, then #3. #2 and 3 were good. #4 was a little loose, so I adjusted it. I reinstalled the plugs and fired her up – still noisy, but not quite as bad. I listened to the intake valve cover and side tappet cover, but was getting more noise from the intake valve cover than the side, so I didn’t bother going to all the trouble of doing the exhaust valves.

I wanted to play with the timing because she has a terrible hesitation when you blip the throttle. I hooked up a vacuum gauge to the w/s wiper line (I know this isn’t the correct place to hook it up, but it’s better than nothing). I loosened the distributor nut and fired her up. I would move the distributor 1/2″ and blip the throttle to check for a hesitation. I continued this until there was none. When I finished, the distributor was almost horizontal with the block, where it started was about 45deg to the block! I might have to go back and check those exhaust valves just to make sure everything is right!

Today, I am planning on replacing the 2 brake lines that connect to the master cylinder y fitting and will probably have to order a new y fitting.

I will upload some pics tonight.

Started getting ready for the Denton rally

I put some gas in the Jeep last Friday. The batteries were still holding charge and she turned over for about a minute before catching and firing up. I haven’t cranked her in months or driven her since last April and she fired up pretty quick, and ran real good. I drove around the field and then down the road to jog my memory as to what needed to be worked on. First thing that I heard was that noisy a** parking brake! The second thing is the noisy a** valves.

So today I was determined to find the problem with the parking brake. I first tried to tighten the adjustment with no luck. Next I started jiggling stuff to see where the problem was. It looked like the inner brake shoe was wiggling pretty good and the arm was rubbing on the drum. So, I tore everything apart and examined the arm – it had a groove worn into it and the inner shoe was wiggling a lot! I removed it and decided I could either replace the shoes ($80) or fix the old ones that still have plenty of lining left. There was enough play that I could drill out the hole to 9/16″ and make a bushing for the shoe. I found a 3/8″stainless nut and used my mini lathe to turn it down and drill it out to 9/16″OD and 1/2″ID. That left just enough material to make a TIGHT fit. I assembled the shoe on the arm and oiled it up for a good fit. I assembled everything back on the drum, adjusted the linkage and adjustment nut. I also found that the skid plate was bent up, touching the arm – so I bent it down enough to keep it from contacting. I will take that off when I get a chance. Went for a test drive and viola! – no noise! The outer shoe holes also need to be done, but that will have to be at a later date.

Next up (possibly tomorrow) is a tune up with valve adjustment.

 

A little more work on the M100 completed

It was finally a nice day outside – and the most important part: I wasn’t working and didn’t have anything else that I HAD to do! It was 70deg and sunny on Feb 1st! Yesterday was nice too, but I had to do some maintenance on my daily driver before I could work on the Jeep or trailer.

Anyhow, today I started back on the M100. The main thing I wanted to do was finish the welding on the underside of it and get it primed. Well, the welding went pretty quick and so did the priming. All I had was about 15 tacks to clean up along the side on the outside, a few to add to the inside and a few to fix along the crossmembers (that I messed up by NOT starting with clean metal – hey, I’m NOT a welder!). Once those were done, I sprayed on some primer to keep the rust at bay. I still had plenty of time left this afternoon, so why stop there?2016-02-01 15.28.38

 

 

 

I disassembled the drawbars from the lunette casting and installed them on the tub.

2016-02-01 15.28.26

Still had a couple of hours before dark, so I thought I would mate the running gear back with the tub – but how to do it by yourself? I started by bolting the rear spring hangers up with the tub standing on end on a slight hill.

2016-02-01 15.42.57

After that, I lifted the running gear up into position and had to use a floor jack to push the spring pivot up in order for the upper mounts to line up with the their holes – pretty complicated without 5 hands! Once bolted up I installed the lunette casting and landing leg.

2016-02-01 16.15.18

 

Now, my next step will be to pretty up my welds on the front panel and do a few spot welds on the inside to make sure the floor stays in place.

2016-02-01 16.31.21

Then I can sand down the outside and throw a coat of paint on the whole thing, install the wiring and install new tires/tubes.

2016-02-01 16.30.42

 

Bottom side almost done

Today, I got the frame and bottom of the tub painted. Before I mated them together I noticed that a few of my spot welds along the side and back had broken loose. So I spent a little while re doing them.

2015-09-16 13.47.27

Notice the new welds along the right and back sides.

2015-09-16 15.45.57

When my wife got home I enlisted her help in “marrying” the frame to the tub. It isn’t all that heavy (probably around 60-75#), it’s just too awkward to do it without scratching up the newly painted tub bottom. Once the frame and tub were married, I got to work making sure the frame was lined up correctly and then started welding.

I only welded up the outside and corners today. My welding skills aren’t that great, so they required grinding also. There are quite a few welds on the outside, and a LOT of welds on the inside and crossmembers! That will have to wait until tomorrow or the next time I’m off.

2015-09-16 18.25.38

Frame almost ready

Today I got the frame sanded down and primed on both sides.

2015-09-15 14.30.27

I primed the rear crossmember.

2015-09-15 14.30.43

And the bottom of the tub.

2015-09-15 14.30.15

Lastly, I permanently bolted (had to cut about 3/8″ off the carriage bolts) and welded the rear crossmember to the frame and touched up the primer.

2015-09-15 16.20.31

So hopefully tomorrow I can get a couple of coats of OD on the bottom of the tub and frame. If it dries fast enough I’ll fit them together and stitch weld them together. I also need to extend the front angle up by about 1/4″ so that it is the same height as the seam of the patch panel. That way I wont have to do any metal finishing on that seam (on the outside anyway).

 

Rear crossmember

I took my old crossmember to the fab shop this morning – they said “no problem, check back after lunch”. I got him to bend 3 pieces x 43″ long. I called back after lunch – $50! – but they were ready. Once I got back home, I discovered that they used a little thicker steel, so the height of the channel was about 1/8″ taller – not really a problem, so I can work with that. He went ahead and used the full width of the sheet – 49″ also.

2015-09-14 14.03.32

I began by measuring the length of the end tab and marking it with a square.

2015-09-14 14.45.53

Next, I cut the tab out on both sides.

2015-09-14 14.47.40

Then bent the tab down.

2015-09-14 15.05.06

Lastly, I measured the total length of the crossmember, marked that with a square, and added 1 7/8″ for the tab – then cut to length. I repeated the process to create the other end tab.

I test fit it in place.

2015-09-14 15.00.25

Then marked and drilled pilot holes for all of the various holes.

2015-09-14 15.43.37

I came back and used various size bits to re create the original holes. I used a step drill bit to drill the 1″ hole on the drain plug side and 7/8″ hole on the other side.

2015-09-14 16.27.39

I test fit it in place and realized that I didn’t cut the half moon out that goes around the drain plug hole. So I used my spare chassis to locate that so that I could re create it on the new crossmember (is was rusted away on the old crossmember).

2015-09-14 17.13.52

Lastly, I test fit it in place one more time and drilled the holes where the rivets originally were. I WAS just going to put bolts back in their place, but ran across some carriage bolts while looking through my bolt bin. I think they look pretty close to rivets, and definitely better than bolt heads!

2015-09-14 18.13.02

Tomorrow, the plan is to prime and paint the bottom of the tub (after I grind down those spot welds) and crossmember. Maybe if the paint dries fast enough I can get the frame welded back on the tub.

M100 frame work

I finally got around to working on the M100 again yesterday. I decided (in my mind) to use the frame off of my other M100 chassis because of how much rust was on this one. After checking out the other frame, it wasn’t worth the extra trouble – the other one was only slightly better. The rear crossmember wasn’t rusted away on it.

So…. I dragged the original frame out of the scrap pile and inspected it again. The rear crossmember needed replacing for sure. About a 1/4″ of the edges of the 2 middle crossmembers were rusted away – which I ground down when I was working on it before. So, I decided to go with it – I was going to replace the rear crossmember and leave the middle ones. I started removing the rear one.

If you’ve never looked at how the frames are assembled, they used 3/8″ rivets AND welding. The rear crossmember uses BOTH methods. There is a rivet on the bottom of each side and the edges are welded on the end and the bottom. I used the plasma cutter to cut the welds so that I could remove the crossmember so that I could get in there with my side grinder to grind down the bottom of the rivets and the rest of the welds that weren’t cut off. Once they were ground down, I was able to use my air chisel to drive out the top half of the rivets.

Then I set the frame on the tub for the first fitting:

2015-09-13 16.05.57

It fit pretty good! There are a couple of spot welds that need to be ground down a little more for it to fit flush to the tub though. Overall, it fits well. It should fit right back in the original location. I WILL have to do a little more fitting on the front angle, as it is TOO far away from the new metal that I welded in. I don’t know what is going on there yet.

2015-09-13 16.06.19

I think today I am going to scuff the bottom of the tub down (after I grind those spot welds and make sure the frame fits flush) and spray some OD on it. I might go ahead and spray the frame with primer (maybe the bottom of the tub too) and paint it too.

There is a metal fab business a few miles away that I am going to go ask if they will bend a channel for me. If so, I’ll get a FEW4′ pieces bent. The rear crossmember measures 37.5″ inside of the outside frame rails. I am guessing that the pieces of channel need to be 42″ long so I will have enough material to cut and bend the tabs on the ends. By the way, the metal is 12ga.

Here are a couple of pics of the rear crossmember after I cut it off. You can see how bad it was rusted.

2015-09-13 16.06.38

2015-09-13 16.06.48