A few things accomplished

I got motivated on Thursday. I went out to the shop and tore the master cylinder back apart and reassembled it with the NOS kit that I ordered and the new copper washers and y fitting nut. I bench bled the master cylinder to get all the air out. I installed the master cylinder under the Jeep and hooked the lines up.

I assembled the pedal assembly next – by memory. Turned out that you have to install the shaft through the bearing BEFORE installing the key and clutch pedal arm! So I had to take it apart to do just that. Next, MAKE SURE that you install it in the right side – that would be with the clutch rod arm on the INSIDE (right side) of the bearing. Had to take it back apart to do this! Next, you CAN’T install the shaft with the bearing bolted to the frame – with the exhaust installed. Then I FINALLY consulted the picture I took for reference. I worked the pedal assembly in place and bolted it down. Went back to the bench and saw the pedal shaft brace laying there. Wiggled back under the Jeep and held the bracket up – DAMN! The master cylinder had to come back off to put the brace on since the master cylinder bolts hold it on! I ended up completely removing the brake lines and bolts to install the brace. The brace bent enough to fit over the end of the pedal shaft.

That’s when I noticed something else that didn’t look right. I put the pedal assembly together according to the reference pic I took, but the washer on the right side of the brake pedal arm wasn’t supposed to be there – the order of parts is cotter pin, washer, brake pedal arm, brace, then cotter pin. The other washer was supposed to be on the outside of the bearing. Anyhow, I fixed the washer/brace problem with the assembly installed. The pedals lined up with the holes in the floor pan better than ever. The new bearing was very tight, but after a little grease was added, it worked great! The used brake pedal arm I bought was just that – USED. I am going to have to buy an NOS one to get rid of the play.


I pushed the brake pedal and it slowly went to the floor. Tried to pump it up, but got the same results. Finally, I looked under the Jeep and saw a puddle of brake fluid – DAMN! I tightened up the lines and y fitting nut – didn’t help. I removed the brake lines and looked into the y fitting – the mating surfaces had indentions in them. Maybe that was causing it to leak like a sieve?

Lastly, I decided to adjust the valves and timing. I pulled the valve cover and spark plugs, then rolled it over to #1 TDC. It was a little loose, so I adjusted it. Put #2 on TDC, then #3. #2 and 3 were good. #4 was a little loose, so I adjusted it. I reinstalled the plugs and fired her up – still noisy, but not quite as bad. I listened to the intake valve cover and side tappet cover, but was getting more noise from the intake valve cover than the side, so I didn’t bother going to all the trouble of doing the exhaust valves.

I wanted to play with the timing because she has a terrible hesitation when you blip the throttle. I hooked up a vacuum gauge to the w/s wiper line (I know this isn’t the correct place to hook it up, but it’s better than nothing). I loosened the distributor nut and fired her up. I would move the distributor 1/2″ and blip the throttle to check for a hesitation. I continued this until there was none. When I finished, the distributor was almost horizontal with the block, where it started was about 45deg to the block! I might have to go back and check those exhaust valves just to make sure everything is right!

Today, I am planning on replacing the 2 brake lines that connect to the master cylinder y fitting and will probably have to order a new y fitting.

I will upload some pics tonight.

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