Carb is done

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I tore the carb down last week – before I got the rebuild kit. I should have known that when it said “master rebuild kit”, that it would include everything that could be replaced. So today I spent a few hours tearing it down farther. I had to remove port plugs and throttle and choke plates, shaft seals and retainers and springs – all to be replaced. One note: the throttle plate screws are staked on the back side of the shaft – don’t try to take them out until you squeeze the screws back together, or you will break the screw heads off – trust me! Also, the new choke spring is a lot stronger than the old one. The kit was missing one plug, the metering rod pin, and didn’t include the idle air check valve. The bowl gasket was not a perfect fit either.

I wanted to re plate the shafts, screws and linkages, but I was too impatient – I didn’t take the time to go to home depot to get the supplies to do it. I brushed the parts clean with the wire wheel on the grinder. I think a lot of the original zinc plating was still intact, because they turned out quite bright. I wasn’t about to spend a bunch of money and time to take the carb parts to a plater to have the zinc chromate finish restored either. I do think I will invest in the equipment to zinc plate though (probably around $30). I just like that kind of stuff, and I will use it when I rebuild the fuel pump.

Now, I just need to put it on the Jeep. I decided that since the one that is on it now was sitting for a long time, so there’s probably some gummed up parts and plugged passages in it contributing to the hesitation and low power. It can be used as a spare since it does work. I might install it Sunday, along with the bellcrank rebuild kit and NOS pitman arm.

When I first went out to the shop, I noticed a nice puddle of oil under the pinion shaft of the rear end – guess I’ll be taking that out before too long also. Remember, I couldn’t get the pinion nut loose to change the seal a while back. The backlash needs adjusting anyway.

One last thing I did, which is pretty insignificant – I measured and installed the new distributor o ring. It is 4 3/8″ diameter x 1/8″ thickness. This one didn’t fit right off. I had to stretch it a couple of times to get it to stay in the grove long enough to put the cap on.

Military distributor capacitor (noise filter) modification

One of the parts I was still needing was a capacitor for the distributor – I could buy one from Turkey (the country) for $20 + shipping, or the US for $32 + shipping  off of ebay – this made my stomach turn! I don’t need the noise suppression of the capacitor – if I do later on, I will spend the money. But for now, I decided to modify my original capacitor instead of just adding a new wire. The wire was bad on my original one. I cut the capacitor open with a hacksaw, leaving about 1″ of the casing intact. Using slip joint pliers, I worked the case apart – pulling the solder joint on the front of the capacitor loose. At this point I could remove the suppression material from the capacitor canister and cut the stud loose from the back cap.

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At this point, I soldered a 7″ piece of 14g wire to the stud.

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Next, I put a piece of shrink tubing over the solder joint and inserted the assembly into the front cap. All that was needed was to apply a little heat (from a propane torch) to the stud. The existing solder melted to fix the stud to the cap.

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Next, I installed the capacitor body into the distributor housing and ran the wire to the coil. I cut the wire allowing for the length of the ring terminal. I crimped AND soldered the ring terminal on, then installed some shrink tubing to complete the modification.

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I reinstalled the modified capacitor assembly into the distributor along with the coil and hooked everything up.

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Installed the cap, and she is done – except for a new cap o ring and 3 cap screws! Saved (probably) $39 for 20 minutes of work!

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Yesterday I started tearing down my spare distributor. I followed the instructions on the carb cleaner solution, but it just wouldn’t clean it like I wanted, so I left the parts in the solution overnight. Today, I took the parts out and they looked real good. I blew them off with air and scraped any gunk off that the cleaner didn’t get. I put the carb base in the cleaner while I was cleaning up and inspecting the other parts.

I think this carb is the one I sent off to have rebuilt back in 1997, because all of the shafts were tight, and overall the carb was in good condition (minus the corrosion in the bowl, accelerator pump and throat). I took the base out of the cleaner and sprayed it down with brake cleaner, then masked it off and sprayed it with Duplicolor caliper paint – did I mention how much I love Duplicolor Caliper Paint? This stuff is great! Covers great, dries very fast, and is a hard paint! Now, I gues I’d better go ahead and order that master carb rebuild kit so that it will be here when I get off next week!

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Distributor and brake lights – done

I decided I would finish the spare distributor today. I went out and pulled the distributor out of the parts Jeep and brought it back to the shop. After opening it up I saw that the weights and springs were in  good shape. It also had other goodies that I needed, such as the inner cap, screws and coil to points wire. The points plate didn’t want to come out – I ended up having to pry it out. I ran into a problem with the points cam also – it didn’t want to come off. It should just lift off after you remove the to circlip holding it on, but mine wouldn’t budge. I finally figured out that it was seized – wouldn’t turn on the shaft. I dogged the dist. shaft down in the vise and carefully applied some torque to the cam and it loosened right up – enough to pry it off the shaft. Turns out that the old oil inside had turned to glue! I removed both weights and springs and cleaned them up with the wire wheel on the bench grinder.

I put a little oil in the weight’s holes, attached the springs to the posts and put the weights on their shafts. The cam sat right down on the shaft and positioned over the weight’s posts. A couple of drops of oil on top of the shaft, a few turns to make sure everything worked correctly, and I put the circlip back on – all done with the centrifugal advance system!

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Next, I transferred all of my good parts (points, condenser, wire) to the better looking points plate and installed it. After installing the plate, I installed the coil and realized that the capacitor wire (the wire coming from the ignition switch) that I replaced was too short to reach the coil! The capacitor in the spare distributor was shot, so I can’t use it. I think I am just going to buy a new one since I didn’t have to buy all of the other parts. I replaced the inner cap with the spare one and filed down all of the contacts on it. I also used the inspection plug (I replaced the o ring). It only had 3 outer cap screws, so I’ll have to get a few more of them. It is ALMOST a drop in replacement distributor to use just in case, so I’ll call it DONE!

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Next I turned my attention to the brake lights not working. I put a 6v switch on it last year before the rally just to get it on the road. My parts Jeep had a 24v switch on it, so I decided to use it. The weeds had grown up around it, so I cut them down the other day. I hooked the tractor up to the front bumper and pulled it up on a ramp. I removed the master cylinder heat shield and pulled the switch out. I went back to my Jeep and switched them out. This time I took the time to “prime” the switch with brake fluid. I don’t think I’ve ever read that anywhere, but it might just make a difference! I turned the switch on and hit the brakes 5-6 times and the lights came on every time, so I guess it worked! Now I need to bleed the brakes one day – they go a little lower than I like.

I cleaned up my hands, jumped in and fired her up. I watched the volt gauge – it started out at the yellow/green and stayed there for a couple of seconds, then popped over to the white line in the green – good to go. She idled high at about 1/3 choke and 2 clicks on the hand throttle. I let her stay there for a minute while I got out and secured the hood and my phone (just in case). I got back in and pushed the choke and throttle in and took off. I ran down the road and back, then hit the highway and made a big loop back around to my house – a total of about 20 miles. A couple of times on the highway I looked down and had to slow down – I had gotten up to around 52mph. I like to stay around 45. I backed her back into the shop and shut her down. One last time I hit the brakes and the lights were still working.

I guess when I order the capacitor I will go ahead and order a carb rebuild kit – that will be my next piece to be rebuilt,