I tore the carb down last week – before I got the rebuild kit. I should have known that when it said “master rebuild kit”, that it would include everything that could be replaced. So today I spent a few hours tearing it down farther. I had to remove port plugs and throttle and choke plates, shaft seals and retainers and springs – all to be replaced. One note: the throttle plate screws are staked on the back side of the shaft – don’t try to take them out until you squeeze the screws back together, or you will break the screw heads off – trust me! Also, the new choke spring is a lot stronger than the old one. The kit was missing one plug, the metering rod pin, and didn’t include the idle air check valve. The bowl gasket was not a perfect fit either.
I wanted to re plate the shafts, screws and linkages, but I was too impatient – I didn’t take the time to go to home depot to get the supplies to do it. I brushed the parts clean with the wire wheel on the grinder. I think a lot of the original zinc plating was still intact, because they turned out quite bright. I wasn’t about to spend a bunch of money and time to take the carb parts to a plater to have the zinc chromate finish restored either. I do think I will invest in the equipment to zinc plate though (probably around $30). I just like that kind of stuff, and I will use it when I rebuild the fuel pump.
Now, I just need to put it on the Jeep. I decided that since the one that is on it now was sitting for a long time, so there’s probably some gummed up parts and plugged passages in it contributing to the hesitation and low power. It can be used as a spare since it does work. I might install it Sunday, along with the bellcrank rebuild kit and NOS pitman arm.
When I first went out to the shop, I noticed a nice puddle of oil under the pinion shaft of the rear end – guess I’ll be taking that out before too long also. Remember, I couldn’t get the pinion nut loose to change the seal a while back. The backlash needs adjusting anyway.
One last thing I did, which is pretty insignificant – I measured and installed the new distributor o ring. It is 4 3/8″ diameter x 1/8″ thickness. This one didn’t fit right off. I had to stretch it a couple of times to get it to stay in the grove long enough to put the cap on.