I didn’t do too much on the Jeep today, although I did get a couple of things done.
I went to O’Reilly’s and picked up the tie rod end, 1q of gear oil and 2q of motor oil (to take to the rally – just in case) after I went to pick up some other stuff at my wife’s Grandfather’s shop (a scissor jack, stencils and fire extinguisher).
When I got home, I started putting the tie rod end on. I noticed that it screwed in real easy. When I got it all bolted up, I turned the steering wheel and POP – I took a look. The tie rod end had pulled out of the tie rod! I took it back off and examined it – compared it to the old one. It was 11/16″ compared to the 3/4″ original. I had ordered one for a 1965 CJ5 – which most parts will interchange with the M38a1, but not the tie rod ends! After a little research on the net, it turns out that the M38 and M38a1 had beefier tie rods which require beefier tie rod ends!
So, after that fail, I moved on to mounting the fire extinguisher. I know it isn’t original, but I’d rather be safe instead. I drilled 4 holes on the driver side wheel well and bolted it down – leaving enough room to put your arm down if you want to. And it hides the nasty job of welding up the old roll bar holes that I did!
Then I moved back to the gas can. I decided to just use it as a decoration for now – after seeing all of the pin holes in it. I might clean the inside and seal it later on – along with bead blasting and repainting. Anyway, I thought I would go ahead and stencil it. The stencils I have are 1″, with about 1/2″ surround. To get the spacing I wanted, I cut about 1/4″ off each side, then butted the cut edge up to the other number/letter to give me roughly 3/8″ space between them. I taped them together and then to the can – then I masked around them. I gave them a medium spray with satin white. I immediately unmasked it and moved on to the front marking. Same process, then moved back and did the 2nd line on the side. Using unglued stencils creates some underspray, but that’s the way they did them originally, and it is completely readable – so here it is:
The front says A BAT (A Battery).
I went to pick up my Daughter and stopped to get the mail on the way back – my Max speed stencil was here! So that was next. It was fairly easy to line it up where I wanted it to be – Dave (Delta Team Decals)has started to square up the edges of his stencils, which is a big time saver. I eyeballed the position on the lower windshield frame, centered over the instrument panel. I pulled the paper backing off completely and stuck the top of the decal right on the top edge of the frame. I smoothed it out, peeled the transfer tape off, masked around it, and sprayed 3 coats of satin white (tacking up between coats). A couple of hours later, I unmasked it. I pulled from 1 side at a sharp angle – when I got to the ‘M’ on MAX, it peeled a little bit of the paint off! If I would have started from the other side about halfway through, I bet it wouldn’t have done that. Oh well – I’m going to try some modeler’s enamel (Testors) for touch up work – the spray paint (sprayed into the paint cap), brushed on, was too thinned out to cover – doesn’t look good. I’ll try that Saturday maybe.
I went online and found a tie rod end pretty cheap with cheap shipping at Morris 4×4 Center – it didn’t have an Omix Ada part number, so I’m hoping it’s not from them. The place was giving a 10% military discount, so I went ahead and ordered the rest of the stuff to rebuild my steering gear and drag link. All that stuff, including shipping, with discount, was just $40 – it’s coming from Florida, so hopefully it will be here early next week before I go back to work.
- Fix fuel leak at the carb
- Go to Walmart for a handheld CB for the rally and Testors model paint and brush
- Touch up markings