Thursday’s update

I didn’t do too much on the Jeep today, although I did get a couple of things done.

I went to O’Reilly’s and picked up the tie rod end, 1q of gear oil and 2q of motor oil (to take to the rally – just in case) after I went to pick up some other stuff at my wife’s Grandfather’s shop (a scissor jack, stencils and fire extinguisher).

When I got home, I started putting the tie rod end on. I noticed that it screwed in real easy. When I got it all bolted up, I turned the steering wheel and POP – I took a look. The tie rod end had pulled out of the tie rod! I took it back off and examined it – compared it to the old one. It was 11/16″ compared to the 3/4″ original. I had ordered one for a 1965 CJ5 – which most parts will interchange with the M38a1, but not the tie rod ends! After a little research on the net, it turns out that the M38 and M38a1 had beefier tie rods which require beefier tie rod ends!

So, after that fail, I moved on to mounting the fire extinguisher. I know it isn’t original, but I’d rather be safe instead. I drilled 4 holes on the driver side wheel well and bolted it down – leaving enough room to put your arm down if you want to. And it hides the nasty job of welding up the old roll bar holes that I did!

Then I moved back to the gas can. I decided to just use it as a decoration for now – after seeing all of the pin holes in it. I might clean the inside and seal it later on – along with bead blasting and repainting. Anyway, I thought I would go ahead and stencil it. The stencils I have  are 1″, with about 1/2″ surround. To get the spacing I wanted, I cut about 1/4″ off each side, then butted the cut edge up to the other number/letter to give me roughly 3/8″ space between them. I taped them together and then to the can – then I masked around them. I gave them a medium spray with satin white. I immediately unmasked it and moved on to the front marking. Same process, then moved back and did the 2nd line on the side. Using unglued stencils creates some underspray, but that’s the way they did them originally, and it is completely readable – so here it is:

The front says A BAT (A Battery).

I went to pick up my Daughter and stopped to get the mail on the way back – my Max speed stencil was here! So that was next. It was fairly easy to line it up where I wanted it to be  – Dave (Delta Team Decals)has started to square up the edges of his stencils, which is a big time saver. I eyeballed the position on the lower windshield frame, centered over the instrument panel. I pulled the paper backing off completely and stuck the top of the decal right on the top edge of the frame. I smoothed it out, peeled the transfer tape off, masked around it, and sprayed 3 coats of satin white (tacking up between coats). A couple of hours later, I unmasked it. I pulled from 1 side at a sharp angle – when I got to the ‘M’ on MAX, it peeled a little bit of the paint off! If I would have started from the other side about halfway through, I bet it wouldn’t have done that. Oh well – I’m going to try some modeler’s enamel (Testors) for touch up work – the spray paint (sprayed into the paint cap), brushed on, was too thinned out to cover – doesn’t look good. I’ll try that Saturday maybe.

I went online and found a tie rod end pretty cheap with cheap shipping at Morris 4×4 Center – it didn’t have an Omix Ada part number, so I’m hoping it’s not from them. The place was giving a 10% military discount, so I went ahead and ordered the rest of the stuff to rebuild my steering gear and drag link. All that stuff, including shipping, with discount, was just $40 – it’s coming from Florida, so hopefully it will be here early next week before I go back to work.

Tomorrow’s List:

  1. Fix fuel leak at the carb
  2. Go to Walmart for a handheld CB for the rally and Testors model paint and brush
  3. Touch up markings


Just another update

Well, I got a few more things crossed off the list today and did a little driving around in the field and over to the asphalt plant.

I started off by sanding and painting the gas can. It turned out alright – will do for now. And I didn’t get a pic of it – either by itself or on the Jeep – oh well!

While the first coat of paint on the can was drying, I backed the Jeep over to the trailer and pulled it to the shop. I picked the best tire/wheel combo and pulled it off and put my old spare (with the fresh paint, but civvy tire) back on it. Then I sanded it down, which was pretty easy. It was pretty obvious that it had been repainted, but not prepped well – the paint came off easily.

I sanded both sides, then prepped the back side and painted it first. I didn’t have enough masking tape, so I just used a stiff piece of paper (from a sandpaper pack) to shield the tire – I wish I would have done the same with all the other wheels! That is a real time saver! I painted 2 coats on the back, then went and put another coat on the gas can. I came back, flipped the wheel, prepped it (with Naphtha) and sprayed 2 coats on it – turned out real good! Then I set the wheel and the can out in the sun to dry for a while.

Next, I put the top bows back on the Jeep. Then I looked around and found a wire clip to use for holding the blackout driving light wires on the front fender. I found that I hadn’t tightened my fender to grill bolts or my radiator support rods, so I tightened them. I found a few things to touch up under the hood while I was there.

Then I put the spare back on the Jeep and Armour Alled it up real good (it was real dry – took 3 coats). Looks better with an NDCC spare on the back – and it is a 1952 model at that!

Then I put my “Good Driver” decal on the glove box. It is the correct one for my 1969 era Jeep – it is dated Aug 1, 1962. The next version was in 1974 – it had a smaller font. I am hoping that my “Max Speed” stencil will show up tomorrow or Friday.

I went for a ride in the field and while I was riding over the old furrows, I noticed a metallic clumping noise coming from the driver front. I looked out at the front wheel and it looked like it was wobbling! I drove around in 2wd, 4wd and 4wd Lo, listening for weird noises – I didn’t hear any that were any worse. I went back to the house and grabbed a 5/8″ ratchet. I found the front and rear spring pivot bolts were a little loose, all of the shock nuts needed tightening, and the driver front spring shackle nuts were not tight (the bottom one was about a full turn loose!) – pretty bad. In addition to that, the driver side tie rod end had a good bit of play in it. I thought I had replaced all of the tie rod ends! I guess I’ll call and see if O’Reilly’s has them in stock.

Then I went back out for another ride. It drove much quieter this time. I drove around the field and then over to the asphalt plant, where I ran into the guys that are dismantling it – I’ve been hoping to catch them there to ask about getting some of the gravel there. They have piles that are 50-60′ high – just sitting there! He said to come back tomorrow and he will work a deal with me for some of it!

Then I went back to the field for a couple of updated pics:

After I got back to the house, I put my gas can back on and parked her back in the shop.

Tomorrow’s list:

  1. Bleed the brakes
  2. Install master cylinder shield
  3. Install master cylinder floor cover
  4. Install tie rod end
  5. Try to fix fuel gauge
  6. Fix fuel leak at carb

‘Til tomorrow



I called O’Reilly Auto – they had a Moog tie rod end for $58 and a Master Pro for $18 – will be here after lunch tomorrow.

Today’s accomplishments

I got a couple of things done today – which is a pretty big deal (considering!). I ended up sleeping until 11:30 this morning – didn’t realize how tired I was! Once I finally got outside, I had to take the pool down before I could start on the Jeep (it is an easy set 0 17′) – that ended up taking about 2 1/2 hours.

I have been meaning to check my trailer receptacle to make sure it works, so I jumped on that first thing. It needed to be  re clocked by turning the “key” from 3 o’clock to the 9 o’clock position – just to be able to plug the trailer in. Of course, this involves taking the wiring cover in the wheel well off to access the nuts. Taking the cover off involves having to fold the seat to access the side bolts. Folding the seat involves taking the screws out of the J-hooks. Anyway, after I re clocked the plug, I backed over to my M101a2 trailer to check the light operation. I plugged her up, checked the 4 way flashers and turn signals and running lights – all worked! Then, I got the idea that the trailer needed to be moved from in front of the shop to beside the shop, so I hooked it up to the pintle, folded the landing leg and disengaged the brakes. I got back in the Jeep, released the handbrake, revved the engine, and off we went! I figured I’d better take it for a spin around the field since it hasn’t been moved since November. The old Jeep did pretty well pulling the 1,300# trailer, but liked 2nd gear the most with it back there. Then, I stopped for a camera op:

Then back to the house – but not without checking the trailer’s articulation (and to drain the water out of it!):

Then I parked it beside the shop. I am supposed to be getting some bows for the trailer at the rally next month – then I can put a tarp over it to keep the water out. This one will probably get restored next year.

I got the Jeep back in the shop and changed the headlights out – fingers crossed that they won’t burn out fast like the last set did. I added an extra ground wire running from each light to the frame in case it was a ground problem.

Then, I started looking for my master cylinder cover. I looked for about 10 minutes, grabbed a beer, and leaned back against the bench to think about it. After gazing at everything in the shop for about 5 minutes, I realized that I hadn’t moved the stuff on the top shelf of my main storage rack. Sure enough, it was under something – along with a reflector housing. I figured I might as well see if it still fit, so I test fit it in the Jeep. Then I realized I needed to find some bolts for it, so I went and found 4 bolts. When test fitting, I realized I needed 1 long bolt, so I found one a little longer – then I painted them.

Next, I started putting together a tool kit to take on the trip. I got pretty much everything I need in it, except for a couple of wrenches – I’ll get those in there before I leave. I also got a gallon of water and a quart of oil – I’ll have to buy a quart of gear oil. And I will need a small fire extinguisher and bottle jack.

I wiped the whole Jeep down because there was dust from the body shop all over her. Then I spray painted the body hold down bolts and washers that weren’t already painted – that touch up thing again. I’ll have to give her a bath before we go – to get her ready for that Georgia mud!

Then I turned my attention to the Jerry can. It needs to be painted and the inside cleaned and sealed.

I started sanding with 150 grit – that did pretty good on the sides and bottom, but just wouldn’t do the job on the top. I tried 100 – that wouldn’t do it, so I switched to 50 grit – that started to do the job. After sanding about 30 minutes, she was as good as it was going to get, so I primed her:

When I started priming I realized that it will have to be sanded  A LOT better (with 220 grit maybe), and that there are pin holes everywhere (at least 10 – 12 of them), so it is going to have to be sealed. I probably should have taken it to the shop and bead blasted it instead of sanding, but that will have to wait – Hell, you could see where it was BRUSH PAINTED the last time!

I’ll sand it down, prime it and paint it (spray bomb) tomorrow.

That’s today’s update.

Tomorrow’s list:

  1. I plan on getting Mandy to help me bleed the brakes (the vacuum bleeder sucks!)
  2. Install the master cylinder heat shield
  3. Install the master cylinder cover
  4. Sand, prime and paint the Jerry can
  5. Put the top bows back on (strapped down for travel)
  6. Take 1 of my M100 wheels off for the Jeep spare
  7. Sand and prime the wheel


Details, details

I did a few things today. I got the markings touched up as best I could. I ended up using 1/8″ and 1/4″black pin striping to tape it off because I couldn’t find any 1/4″ masking tape. It worked alright, but there were some places that didn’t stick down (like around curves), so I got some bleed through there.  It turned out OK – it will do for now.

I also painted my wheel weights and touched up all bare metal or chipped paint (or stuff I never did paint).

After I got the touch ups done, I put all the body bolts back in and tightened the fender bolts and steering column bolts. I changed the fuel filter and (hopefully) fixed the fuel leak at the “T” under the right motor mount. I checked to see if the fuel gauge not working was a ground problem by running a temporary wire – still didn’t work. My brake lights aren’t working for some reason – hopefully after I bleed the brakes they will work.

I took a little ride – just because. I rode down the road to the field and around it a little. I tested 4wd high and low range – didn’t have any extra loud noises or vibration. The temp gauge is working now. Then I rode over to the asphalt plant road. I got her up to about 40mph and didn’t get any wobble and it seemed to ride smoother because the wheels are balanced now. When I got her back in the shop and parked, I didn’t see any fuel drips under the right side.

Tomorrow the plan is to find my master cylinder cover (I saw it a couple of months ago, but can’t remember where), bleed the brakes and  change the headlights. I might try the fuel gauge again too. I still need to get my gas can cleaned and sealed and painted and my spare tire/wheel sanded and painted too.

Got her home now

Today I went to pick her up at the shop and bring her home. I stopped by the tire shop on the corner near my brother’s body shop and asked if they could get to balancing my wheels right then and he said he could. So I ran down to the shop, jumped in, fired her up and ran up to the tire shop – they started right away. They ended up putting about 5 oz. on the right rear, and about 3 oz on all the rest of them! Maybe that was the main cause of the “Death Wobble”! He charged me $20 for balancing them – not bad. I drove back over to the shop and hooked up the car hauler and loaded her up.

I think I need a little bit more drop on my hitch – maybe a 4″ instead of 2. Need to paint those wheel weights too!

The ride back to the house was uneventful, but I pulled her too far forward on the trailer, so the Expedition was kind of wondering over the road. The trailer also had a vibration and the front axle was hopping slightly. My brother said that when he pulled it to pick up a car a few weeks ago and got up to 65-70mph it bounced real bad. So on the way to take the trailer back, I stopped at another tire dealer and got them to balance the tires on the trailer. I did notice that it was kind of bouncy – even at 35mph. When he got finished, he had added about 5 oz to the left front, 3 oz to the left rear, 2.5 to the right front and 1.75 to the right rear! No wonder it bounced!

I took 3 days off next week to wrap up all the little stuff on her before the rally – I’ll get back on her on Monday!

Markings – DONE (almost)

OK, so I got a late start this morning (almost lunch). I went to the body shop and got a quick start on the hood star. I don’t think I mentioned where I got my stencils from. I ordered them from Delta Team Decals – he was 1/2 the price of Rick Larsen Stencils. The only thing that I didn’t like was that the stencils weren’t cut square – ended up having to do a lot of measuring to make sure everything was straight. I think this is what took the most time.

Anyway – back to the details. The big star took about 20 minutes to make sure it was where I wanted it to be. The original military spec was to make the star completely visible with the windshield folded down. That would’ve put the star point almost to the front of the hood – I didn’t like it that way, so I centered it on the hood. I had to remove the footman loop and hood catch before I started measuring.

Figuring out how to get the backing off of the mask was fun too – how do you do that with a 20″ star (the first time you’ve ever done it). I finally figured out to masking tape it down the center, peel it off back to the tape, take a razor blade and cut that half of the backing off, squeegee that side down, remove the tape, and do the same to the other side – worked pretty good.

NOTE: Make sure you get the mask pushed down into the creases in the hood or it will be pulled up there, causing overspray to get in there. Mine did that and I couldn’t get it to stay down. My brother suggested spraying away from the raised up areas – that worked pretty well. I still have a small touch up on each side in this area though.

Next, I had to figure out where the side hood numbers went. Military spec says the driver side is to be centered in the available space. The available space on that side is between the B.O. driving light and the edge of the hood. The passenger side was to be centered in the available space, which is between the hood hold down and the edge. I ended up measuring 4″ from the bottom of the hood to the top of the numbers giving me a 2″ space below the numbers. I put a piece of tape down the middle and looked and measured again before I removed the backing. After you get everything set, you have to remove the transfer tape from the top of the mask. Then I masked up everything with 12″ masking paper I bought for $3 at Home Depot. By the way – get the 2″ masking tape because it just makes it easier.

Scuff the area to be sprayed (I didn’t, and you’ll see the result shortly). I sprayed 4 light coats on, letting it flash off between coats (when it stopped looking glossy). By the way – I used Rust Ole um Satin White that I got from Wal-Mart. I bought 2 cans, but didn’t even use 1 – but I have a trailer to do too.

After I got the last coat on, I started putting the masks on the Jeep because I knew it was going to take forever! I started with the tire pressure masks. I just stood over the center of the wheel well and centered the mask on the hub cap. It helps to have the center marked on your mask at the top and both sides. When you get it where you want it, mark the body at those marks on the mask so that you have reference points to go by. Then tape down the center, remove half the backing, cut it, squeegee it down, and do the same for the other side.

Next I did my rear quarter body stars (6″). I centered the top point on the rear top bracket. Then I measured down 5″ from the body to the top of each horizontal point. Same for the other side.

Then I did my front bumper. I cut the mask so that I would have the first number 2″ from the edge of the bumper (to have a straight edge, and that’s how far I wanted my numbers from the edge). I centered the numbers vertically, leaving 1″ above and below the numbers. Same for the right side. I centered the star on the bumper. I never have been a fan of the 6″ stars on the front of the fenders, so I didn’t put them on.

The rear bumperette markings were pretty easy to put on because there were some pretty good points to measure from, so they went on quick.

The caution mask under the gas filler was the same – easy to measure and apply.

This is a shot after I had already applied 1 coat:

After the first coat, I decided to start removing the hood masks. I took all the masking materials off and then started pulling the mask off the driver side. Evidently, the paint wasn’t dry enough plus I didn’t scuff the paint. In my defense, the directions didn’t say to scuff the surface to be sprayed, but it did say to let it dry (I just didn’t think it meant COMPLETELY).

This was the result:

I don’t really have time to order a new mask and sand down and repaint this before the rally (in 3 weeks), so I am going to tape it off and touch it up for the time being. Also notice the over spray – make sure you tape all paper seams tight near the spray area!

I left the other side and star alone!

I went back and sprayed 3 more coats on the rest of the masks. After a few minutes, I took all of the masking paper and tape off and left them alone to dry.

I started re assembling everything I had taken off to kill some time. Ate lunch. My brother needed me to ride with him to take a car back to a dealer and pick up a truck, so we did that.

So, after over an hour, I started to take the mask off the left side of the bumper. I got the 8 uncovered, and the 3 started to pull. About that time, the guy I work with called and I talked to him for about 1/2 hour. While I was talking to him I painted the white on the footman loop and hood catch that the star covered up (only part of each is painted). After I got off the phone with him, I went back and tried again – this time it came off pretty cleanly, so I went ahead and did the rest of the Jeep. The caution mask was a pain – too many letters (1″ tall letters!). It all turned out well – I have a few small touch ups, but nothing like the hood!

Nice fuel leak, huh? Gonna fix that tomorrow!

I got brave and went back to the hood. I found that you have to pull the mask at a tight angle and from many angles to keep from pulling the paint. Also, when doing the stars, pull from the points. When you get to another point, tear the mask and start a new pull – don’t try to pull it all off in one piece. The other hood number and star did great. I will have to touch up where the over spray went between the hood and hood filler panel though.

The unit markings are my Dad’s unit in 1969 – 3rd Brig 4th Battalion 83rd Field Arty – A Battery.

Going to have to mount the tag somewhere else because you can’t see the left bumper unit markings.

I’ll be going to pick her up and bring her home in the morning. Might stop by the tire shop and get the wheels balanced too – since I’ll be going past the place that didn’t balance them to start with!

Paint – DONE!

Well, she’s got a nice even coat of Gillespie OD24087 now! I read a bunch of different posts about how to thin this enamel – some said thin 2 parts paint to 1 part reducer, then some said 4 to 1. I settled on 3 to 1. It was the same story about WHICH reducer to use – synthetic enamel reducer, xylene, mineral spirits, naphtha, or paint thinner. Each has its own specific characteristics on drying time, hardness, thinning ability and gloss. I settled on mineral spirits, even though the distributor said to use xylene at 4 to 1.

Anyway, I got to the shop and Scotch Brighted all places that I missed. Then I blew down the whole Jeep to get any dust and trapped water off of it. Then I started taping it up – it really wasn’t much to tape. I taped the headlights, front and rear turn signals, around the gas tank filler, around the dash panel, engine compartment and tub. I cut a piece of cardboard and worked it in through the grill to cover the radiator. And then she was moved to the paint booth. I covered the steering wheel and seat with paper, and put wheel covers on to keep the overspray off them.

I closed the doors and turned on the downdraft fan – man it was nice! I wiped down the whole Jeep and hood with a pre paint prep to remove any dust, oil or fingerprints left on it. Then I went out and mixed up the paint (in a REAL mixing room!). I put on my respirator and went back in the booth. Before I started painting, I took a tack cloth and wiped down everything again with that – I wonder if the military in the late ’60s went to this much trouble when they painted the trucks?

After about 20 minutes of spraying, I had a nice even coat on her – with NO runs or sags, and only a couple of pieces of trash. It’s so nice to see her with just 1 shade of paint – all with the same texture. AND, did I mention how nice it was to use a REAL paint booth? NO overspray flying around, sticking to everything, and being able to see everything while you’re painting – that was nice!

I left the booth after checking her over one last time (my brother found one place that I had missed on the front bumper – I had just enough paint left to hit that). I initially forgot to start the heater to cure the paint. I remembered about 20 minutes later and started her up. I let her bake @ 140 deg for 1/2 hour. When the burner cut off, I let the booth cool down a little. Then I went in and untaped everything and moved her on back into the shop and moved the hood.

She’s looking a little shiny right now, but some of that shininess will go away over time. I’m hoping that by baking the paint, that I will be able to paint my markings on – on Monday. Also, you can see that fuel leak that I need to fix – that was there from sitting before, not from just sitting after I pulled her out of the booth. I also have a leak from the rear pinion. I tried to fix that a couple of weeks ago, but couldn’t get the yoke off. I actually broke my puller trying to get it off! I guess I’ll have to take it to somebody to fix that.

That’s it for this update – I guess the next one will be after I get the markings on her.