I finally bit the bullet and ordered my interior today. I’ve been putting it off long enough. I figured I’m getting close enough to being finished that I’d better go ahead and get them. Donna, at Pizzoferrato Enterprizes (used to be called WeeBee Webbing), said she was waiting for an order of seat foam that should be here this week. The covers are already made, so she said she could send them out next week!

Now I’ve got to decide on tires – NDCC military tread or civilian tires.

Sick baby at home today, so I won’t be working on the Jeep.

Trailer plug

I went out this afternoon intending to only check the trailer plug receptacle. I turned the gas on, pulled the choke half out, turned the ignition on, set the park brake, checked for neutral and hit the starter. She started in about 1 second! She ran a little rough, so I pushed the choke all the way in – she smoothed out and ran great!

I pulled her out and backed up in front of my M101a2 trailer to test the trailer plug receptacle on the Jeep. Pulled the park brake back up and put her in neutral. I went to hook up the trailer cable, but the receptacle cover on the Jeep is oriented the wrong way – couldn’t plug the trailer up. I guess they changed the receptacle orientation to a different direction over the years – I hope the new cables I bought for my M100 isn’t the same as the modern trailer cables. Oh well, so much for that idea!

While I was trying the cable, I was listening to the exhaust – it sounded horrible, skipping and popping and such! So, I pulled in front of the shop and hooked up my timing light adapter and timing light. I fired her up and checked the timing. I couldn’t find the timing mark to start with, then finally found it at around 25 – 30 deg BTDC. It is supposed to be at 5 deg BTDC! I tried to move the distributor – it was loose! No wonder it was so far off – I never tightened it up the last time! I set it where it needed to be and shut the engine down. I put a rag over the starter post (remember what happened when my ring touched the starter post?) and tightened it down. I fired her back up – perfect, revved her up – pretty good, idle – perfect, hardly no popping and skipping! I might need to go back in and check the points and re check the timing again. I took a test drive and she ran so much better than yesterday – she is almost a different vehicle!

Next, I removed my headlight ground wires, Guess what? They were not even touching metal! I scraped everything down, put some Anti Ox on the metal, and tightened them back down. Everybody told me to check the grounds and even add a ground wire from the grill to the frame. Not being grounded could be causing my headlights to burn out quickly. I am still going to check the generator output and make sure it is in spec though.

I recorded “The Jeep Sound” and finally figured out how to use it here:

Lastly, I put my orange lenses on my B.O. marker lights and then taped a pair of orange lenses below the marker lights. Here is a poll – Which one do you like better? Those are the only orange lenses I had – I am thinking smaller.

Lenses over B.O. marker lights. Would have a dual filament bulb and be used for a parking light + turn signals

Lenses taped below the B.O. marker lights for demonstration purpose. My next option would be to put a smaller turn signal light here. The last option would be to put the turn signals somewhere else.

Turn signals!

I got my other vacuum wiper motor rebuilt and painted on Friday (that’s it). Yesterday (Saturday), I didn’t do anything on it.

Today, I put the wiper motor on and ran the vacuum line to it. Then, I put 2 copper washers on the top of the oil filter housing because it was leaking – the new filter element came with a new top gasket (which was the wrong thickness, causing me to have to tighten it down more than necessary), but not a new copper washer (to seal the top bolt). Got that to stop leaking.

While I am on the subject of leaks: 1)There is a leak coming from the side valve cover. 2)There is also a gas leak at the ‘T’ under the regulator (I just put 5 gal of gas in it, so that is going to have to wait a little while). 3)Small leak on the front of the engine. 4)Small drip from the front differential cover.

I figured I would try to figure out what was up with the passenger side brake light. It only came with a brake light on the driver side, so until I installed the turn signal conversion, I wouldn’t have a passenger brake light. I also figured out that the brake light switch was either bad or has an air lock  in it. The brake light s work if you connect the 2 wires from the switch together. With military brake light switches running $75, I think I am going to try a civilian one first – fingers crossed ($5)!

I started out reading the instructions for the conversion kit. It was talking about cutting wires and adding connectors and running extra wires – I was about to say forget it! Then, I started looking at the little metal ID number tags on each wire and the turn signal harness while reading the instructions. I forgot that I ordered the new vehicle wiring harness ALREADY wired for turn signals! All I had to do was disconnect the light switch and connect the turn signal harness between it and the vehicle wiring harness. Then, I temporarily connected the turn signal harness ground wire and screwed in the flasher and the turn signal switch. PRESTO! All of the lights on the back (B.O. marker, running, brake, turn signal) worked like they were supposed to! And even the green flashing light on the turn signal switch worked. The 4 way flashers work. I was VERY surprised. I’ve been dreading doing this conversion for a long time, and it turned out being VERY easy. All I have to do now is decide whether I want to keep the current front B.O. marker lights and put another set of turn signal lights on the front, or convert the marker lights to turn signals – using orange lenses. Any input on this? I’ll try to find some pics to post so you can see what I am talking about. Either way, I am going to have to run 2 wires for the front turn signals to work.

Here’s a pic of the new solid state flasher I picked up back in October at the Georgia MVPA rally (I also got the switch there – for $25/ea). They were guaranteed to work – and they do!

The flasher is the finned thing in the middle. The harness is run through with the chassis harness and grounded right above the grommet.

And here’s one with the turn signal indicator light flashing – see, they really do work!

I also got my horn beeping. The switch didn’t need adjusting – the button rod did. I’m going to have to record the Jeep Beep and put it on here – gotta love it!

Jordan and I drove around the field a couple of times, then came back and got Mandy and rode around a little longer, then I went back and parked her in the shop to adjust the idle. About the time I shut her down, my neighbor called – he said he saw us riding around, and he wanted to go for a ride too!. So, back out I went. I picked him up and we went to the other field beside his house and rode for a few minutes. After we got back, he said that was the bumpiest ride he had ever taken! He couldn’t even take a sip of his beer while we were moving! I told him that HMVs were made for utility, not comfort. Nuff said!

I had planned on checking the trailer plug wiring by hooking up to my M101a2, but by the time we were done it was supper time. I have to work some overtime for the next 2 nights (to pay for this thang!), then back on my shift the day after. I might try to test the trailer lights tomorrow anyway though.

I’m still holding back on the interior (although, if I don’t hurry up and bite the bullet, they will be backed up and I won’t be able to get it too quick).

Progress made

I got off work this morning and went to pick up my windshield. It turned out good, but not perfect (the middle divider isn’t completely straight). I have $241 in the new glass and seal! The NOS seal I had (packaged in 4/1954) was so stiff that he couldn’t use it, so I had to order a new one at $80 ($91 with shipping!). The glass, installed, was $150.

I also went ahead and installed the vacuum lines, upper door channels and top rod brackets. I still have to rebuild/paint/install the passenger side vacuum wiper motor.

I now have 4 OD green wheels – albeit 3 different types! I knew I had 2 military and 2 civvy, but I didn’t notice until I mounted them that I had 2 civvy (same style) and 2 military (different styles)! I’ll have to steal the wheels off of the trailers to get a matching set! I was going to have to sand blast those anyway!

I went ahead and painted my passenger and rear seat frames while I was painting – it is supposed to be raining tomorrow, so I’ll be working inside on wiring. I started troubleshooting the wiring problems this evening. I still have a brake light that stays on all the time (the other one won’t work until I install the turn signal conversion), a horn that doesn’t blow (need to adjust the switch, I think), and have to install the turn signal kit. I guess I’ll work on that tomorrow.

I also found out that I am going to have to loosen all of my body mounts and adjust the body. When I put my old hood on today, it was shifted about an inch to one side – it wouldn’t even close. The rear panel and passenger fender aren’t lined up either.

I guess some interior and markings and shoes are in her future before long. I was kind of wanting to get her finished before the Steel Soldiers rally in Denton, NC next month, but there’s no way. They are going to be doing trail rides there – that would be fun! I found out that I can pull it on a tow dolly if I disconnect the rear driveshaft, so I was thinking about pulling it behind the RV.

Well, here’s 1 more pic – will update on tomorrow’s progress.

2 down (almost)

Yesterday, I got my engine decals put on. There are 4 decals on the oil filter, 1 on the valve cover, 1 on the air cleaner intake, 1 on the passenger’s side fender, 2 on the instrument panel, 1 fording plug decal that is supposed to go on the dash (? – don’t know if I am going to put it on or not), and a “Good Driver” decal for the dash (don’t know about that one or not either – it is dated 1962).

I got 2 of the wheels painted today (the fronts of them anyway) while I was waiting on the girls to finish cleaning the house. They came out pretty good – but they are showing the pitting and all pretty well too. One of these is an old CJ5 rim – the other is a military one. Can you guess which is which? You really can’t see them good enough to be able to tell here. I have another CJ rim too. All you really have to do is drill a hole to make them look the same though. That is my 1941 Nesco gas can on the right. It was given to me by a local antique dealer (Mr. Hunter).

More info

I got a call Thursday from the glass installer. He said the glass seal they sent him was for a CJ5 – single piece of glass. He asked if that would do, or if I wanted to try to find a seal. I told him that it had to be a 2 piece – that is one of the signature traits for a military Jeep. I called around to almost all of the surplus parts dealers that I know of on Thursday – all of them either didn’t have a seal or they were backordered.

On the way home from work Friday morning I stopped at O’reilly and got a 1/4″ x 51″ brake line so that I could make new solid lines for the vacuum windshield wipers – the originals were rusty and plugged up. When I got home I cut the lines to length and bent the one that goes around the edge of the windshield. One nice thing about the brake lines at O’rielly and Auto Zone is that they are already green! I had already painted the clamps and replacement screws, so all I have to do is install them and the door channels when I get my windshield back from the glass installer.

I had a little more time left before bed, so I went ahead and scuffed the freshly primed wheels with a red Scotch Brite pad – so that they will be ready to paint on the next warm day we have. It looks like next week is supposed to be in the 70’s, so I guess I’ll get that done before I get off of work next week.

When I got inside I called Army Jeep Parts. They had 2 glass seals left – then they would be back ordered. The girl said that they are the company that has the seals made, and distributes them to the rest of the dealers – that’s why nobody had them (even the distributor was almost out). I hurried up and ordered one and got her to ship it to the glass installer to save me a trip. She said she would ship it out yesterday USPS, so hopefully it will be there first thing Monday or Tuesday (it’s coming from PA, so it’s not that far away). That seal cost me $80 + shipping! Of course, all of the dealers (except Kaiser Willys here in SC) were the same price. Kaiser was $62.50, but out of stock!

That’s it for this update – I will hopefully get the wheels painted early next week and get some pics on here. I will take a couple of shots of the new windshield (which is a piece of gold now – $100(glass) + $50(install fee) + $80(seal) = $230!) and vacuum tubes and door channels installed.


4 done, spare left to do

Well, I got 3 out of 4 done. I figure the spare can wait. I had to stop mid way to help my neighbor put a trampoline together – then we decided to go for a 4 wheeler ride and drink a few beers.

I went to Tractor Supply to buy screws for the hard vacuum lines and door channels on the windshield frame and the J hooks for the rear seat. I ended up finding Valspar red oxide primer for $3.99/can and a blasting hood (money well spent – $20) – it even had a hard hat inside. I also found that they have a black beauty type media  (called Black Diamond) in smaller grits, for $8/ 50# bag – I don’t know whether it is made in the USA (didn’t read the bag) – I might try it the next time I need media since it is cheaper.

The first wheel ended up taking about 2 hrs and 1 1/2 bags (75#) of media! I started looking for the problem after about and hour – and only having finished one side. It ended up being a combination of things. First, the tip was worn out – good thing I had a pack of spares. I replaced the tip and tried again – after getting the media valve just right, it was eating the paint off! Then it stopped. I ended up taking the whole bottom media inlet apart and cleaning it. I tried again and it stopped up again. Then I turned the whole tank over and dumped it out on the tarp. The was probably 60# of media in the tank – including about 5# of black beauty! I sifted all of the trash and black beauty out (using about a 60 grit seive that came with my blasting cabinet) and put the rest back in the tank. It worked like a charm then – didn’t plug up again, and ate the paint like it should. And the air compressor kept the pressure about 75psi the whole time. The other 2 wheels didn’t take long at all – maybe an hour total. After I got everything working right, I only used 2 1/2 bags of media on the 3 wheels – of course, I sifted and re used  it until there was no more on the tarp.

I found some tape today, so I didn’t have to use wheel bearing grease! I taped them off and primed them.

I called the glass installer this morning to see if he found a locking bead for me. His secretary said she couldn’t find one. So, I got on the phone with the surplus dealers and found one – and ordered it and some other stuff. I called the installer back to tell him I would have one next week. He said he had been working with my seal, but it was not going to work, and he had found a new style seal without the locking strip that should work – it would be there at lunch time. I told him to call me back and let me know so that I could cancel the order I had made earlier if it worked. By 3:00, I still hadn’t heard from him, so I called – the secretary said he was on a call , but the seal was there. I called and cancelled the locking strip order anyway. I’ll deal with it later!

Back to work tomorrow night – might or might not work on it this week. Will update if I do.