50,000 blog views!

I never would’ve thought that this blog would’ve gotten this much attention in a little over 4 years! Now I feel like I am shorting everyone on content – since I really haven’t done anything WITH or TO the Jeep (or trailer) in a while. If only WordPress would have paid me $0.05/view, I could afford to have the engine rebuilt in the Jeep!

Thank you for your continued support and interest in my blog! Maybe after the heat of the summer is gone I will get back on the trailer and engine rebuild.

2016 North Carolina Military Vehicle Rally and Show




I FINALLY made it to the rally a little after 12 on Friday. I left the house an hour late because I couldn’t get the right trailer light to work. THEN, I had to stop by the bank to get a new debit card because my # was stolen on Thursday and I had to cancel that card. It took about an hour to get the new one. I also had to withdraw money because the new card wouldn’t be useable until Saturday (I needed cash for the show anyway). The last thing I had to do was stop by the store to buy some magnetic trailer lights for the trailer to keep from getting stopped. I was on the road slightly more than 2 hrs LATER than planned.

I had to get at least one pic of the Jeep at the show. I kept it at my campsite to draw people over to my “For Sale” trailer. I did not take the Jeep on the convoy to the BBQ. I just didn’t feel good about the condition of the engine PLUS it was going to be COLD on the way back! The show was pretty good – we had over 50 vehicles from VA, NC, SC, GA, and TN.

Here is the link to the start of the pics of the rally: 2016 Denton rally

And the BBQ convoy start video: 2016 Denton rally BBQ convoy

We had 34 vehicles that went on the BBQ convoy Friday afternoon. We got split up into two groups when an M37 in the convoy blew a tire and everyone behind ended up stopping with him instead of continuing on. I was riding with a young guy in a bobbed deuce that scared the crap out of me with his driving! I rode back with someone else in a Dodge M880. I don’t know the official count of people at the BBQ,but I would guess somewhere in the 75-85 range. We went through 60# of BBQ plus pork and beans, green beans and potatoes, cole slaw and hush puppies!

I took a bunch of odds and ends that I pulled out of the shop to sell. I ended up selling the RT68, 12v power supply and early M151/AB15 to a guy and his son to mount in the M38 they are restoring. I also sold a military fire ext, some dash lights, some weather stripping and some magazines (which I forgot to take and would’ve sold a BUNCH of them!). I basically sold enough stuff to pay for my trip! Good enough!

I finally met up with one of the guys (Al Harvey) I have been talking to on the forums for years – we always seem to miss each other at the GA rally. It’s always nice to put a face to the name!

I bought a few things while there. I got a 40mm ammo can, a left side tail light with good wiring for the M100, a pair of desert camo fatigue pants, a case of MREs for another guy, a rally t shirt and a challenge coin for me and one for Jordan.

Until next time……

Ready for the rally

I got my new brake line “Y” in the mail and installed it on Friday, bled the system and went for a test drive of about 8 miles. The ignition adjustment did it some justice – I was holding 60mph for about 5 of those, having to slow down because of a car in front of me. Brakes seemed to work fine. That’s all I did that day.

Tuesday, I got her out and washed and dried her by hand. Then I decided to take the long route to the gas station that sells non-ethanol gas. Once filled up, I headed back to the house. She was running really good and the weather was excellent Jeep weather, so I kept on going – to the next town about 8 miles away. I held her at 45 mph. Right before I turned off the highway, I looked down at the oil pressure gauge – it was reading 30psi. When I entered the little town at about 15mph, the pressure was reading about 15-20psi. I figured it would probably be best to head home because this didn’t seem high enough. On the way home, I held her at 45mph again and the pressure stayed about 28psi. It could be the sending unit or gauge – the only sure way to tell is to plumb one into the oil system.Rally time

Once I got home, I pulled into the shop to look for leaks. I didn’t find any oil leaks and the level was fine, but looked thinned out. I decided to change it because it looked thin and the last time I changed it was 4/29/12! I ran to town and bought a gallon of 10w30. Once home, I slid under the Jeep to drain it and found a brake fluid leak! I pulled the drain plug and tightened the brake line while I was under there. I didn’t have time to do anything else that day. Hopefully the new oil will solve the low oil pressure problem and tightening the line fixed the leak – it wasn’t dripping when I looked.

So tomorrow morning I leave for the rally. Planning on starting to load at 6am and leave before 8. I serviced the trailer bearings and brakes on Wednesday, so it’s ready to go with a new spare tire also.

No luck on the brakes today

Today, I bought a new brake line, cut it to length, flared and installed it – still had leaks! I guess I need to go ahead and order a new y fitting. Looks like I need to do a little touch up paint on the frame where the brake fluid was leaking.


Next, I moved on to adjusting the exhaust valves. Man, getting that tappet cover out of that cramped space is a PITA!


It’s kind of hard to keep the tappet cover from leaking. After scrape the block, I clean it with acetone. I put a light coat of Permatex black on one side of the cork gasket, then put it in place on the block and let it set up a little. I clean the old Permatex off the cover, clean the surface with acetone and put a thin coat on the gasket surface. I put a small bead on the PCV hat and let this set up a little. I also put a little on the washers on the bolts and a small bead on the PCV hat where the bolt goes through.

Lastly, you’ll have to snake the cover back into the tight space without knocking the gasket out of place. Since the Permatex has set up some, this is a little easier. Make sure the throttle bellcrank and vacuum line are out of the way before you start. Once in place, tighten the bolts snugly into place, but not overly tight. Reinstall the throttle linkage, PCV system and vacuum lines. I went ahead and cleaned the PCV valve while I had everything apart – can’t hurt. Just remember how it came apart.


After that was taken care of, I slid up under the Jeep and took care of a few of the leaks that I have. I tightened the oil pan and timing cover bolts. Then I tightened the axle cover bolts. While I was in the area, I smelled old gas and traced it to the tee in the fuel line that feeds the optional gas heater. I tightened those fittings.

Next, I greased ALL of the grease zerks. Lastly, I checked and filled the tranny, transfer, axles and steering gear. The transfer, rear axle and steering gear needed oil – I ended up adding about a quart total (it’s been a while since I checked them – and they leak)!

One other thing I did was to work on the fuel gauge. I unplugged the wire at the sender and it jumped to FULL. Plugged it back up and it went back to right above EMPTY, which is about right. I turned the switch off and back on  – it went to EMPTY. Same result after turning the switch on and off a few times. I unplugged the wire and plugged it back in – went to right above EMPTY again. This was repeated every time. Maybe it’s the gauge?


A few things accomplished

I got motivated on Thursday. I went out to the shop and tore the master cylinder back apart and reassembled it with the NOS kit that I ordered and the new copper washers and y fitting nut. I bench bled the master cylinder to get all the air out. I installed the master cylinder under the Jeep and hooked the lines up.

I assembled the pedal assembly next – by memory. Turned out that you have to install the shaft through the bearing BEFORE installing the key and clutch pedal arm! So I had to take it apart to do just that. Next, MAKE SURE that you install it in the right side – that would be with the clutch rod arm on the INSIDE (right side) of the bearing. Had to take it back apart to do this! Next, you CAN’T install the shaft with the bearing bolted to the frame – with the exhaust installed. Then I FINALLY consulted the picture I took for reference. I worked the pedal assembly in place and bolted it down. Went back to the bench and saw the pedal shaft brace laying there. Wiggled back under the Jeep and held the bracket up – DAMN! The master cylinder had to come back off to put the brace on since the master cylinder bolts hold it on! I ended up completely removing the brake lines and bolts to install the brace. The brace bent enough to fit over the end of the pedal shaft.

That’s when I noticed something else that didn’t look right. I put the pedal assembly together according to the reference pic I took, but the washer on the right side of the brake pedal arm wasn’t supposed to be there – the order of parts is cotter pin, washer, brake pedal arm, brace, then cotter pin. The other washer was supposed to be on the outside of the bearing. Anyhow, I fixed the washer/brace problem with the assembly installed. The pedals lined up with the holes in the floor pan better than ever. The new bearing was very tight, but after a little grease was added, it worked great! The used brake pedal arm I bought was just that – USED. I am going to have to buy an NOS one to get rid of the play.


I pushed the brake pedal and it slowly went to the floor. Tried to pump it up, but got the same results. Finally, I looked under the Jeep and saw a puddle of brake fluid – DAMN! I tightened up the lines and y fitting nut – didn’t help. I removed the brake lines and looked into the y fitting – the mating surfaces had indentions in them. Maybe that was causing it to leak like a sieve?

Lastly, I decided to adjust the valves and timing. I pulled the valve cover and spark plugs, then rolled it over to #1 TDC. It was a little loose, so I adjusted it. Put #2 on TDC, then #3. #2 and 3 were good. #4 was a little loose, so I adjusted it. I reinstalled the plugs and fired her up – still noisy, but not quite as bad. I listened to the intake valve cover and side tappet cover, but was getting more noise from the intake valve cover than the side, so I didn’t bother going to all the trouble of doing the exhaust valves.

I wanted to play with the timing because she has a terrible hesitation when you blip the throttle. I hooked up a vacuum gauge to the w/s wiper line (I know this isn’t the correct place to hook it up, but it’s better than nothing). I loosened the distributor nut and fired her up. I would move the distributor 1/2″ and blip the throttle to check for a hesitation. I continued this until there was none. When I finished, the distributor was almost horizontal with the block, where it started was about 45deg to the block! I might have to go back and check those exhaust valves just to make sure everything is right!

Today, I am planning on replacing the 2 brake lines that connect to the master cylinder y fitting and will probably have to order a new y fitting.

I will upload some pics tonight.

Started getting ready for the Denton rally

I put some gas in the Jeep last Friday. The batteries were still holding charge and she turned over for about a minute before catching and firing up. I haven’t cranked her in months or driven her since last April and she fired up pretty quick, and ran real good. I drove around the field and then down the road to jog my memory as to what needed to be worked on. First thing that I heard was that noisy a** parking brake! The second thing is the noisy a** valves.

So today I was determined to find the problem with the parking brake. I first tried to tighten the adjustment with no luck. Next I started jiggling stuff to see where the problem was. It looked like the inner brake shoe was wiggling pretty good and the arm was rubbing on the drum. So, I tore everything apart and examined the arm – it had a groove worn into it and the inner shoe was wiggling a lot! I removed it and decided I could either replace the shoes ($80) or fix the old ones that still have plenty of lining left. There was enough play that I could drill out the hole to 9/16″ and make a bushing for the shoe. I found a 3/8″stainless nut and used my mini lathe to turn it down and drill it out to 9/16″OD and 1/2″ID. That left just enough material to make a TIGHT fit. I assembled the shoe on the arm and oiled it up for a good fit. I assembled everything back on the drum, adjusted the linkage and adjustment nut. I also found that the skid plate was bent up, touching the arm – so I bent it down enough to keep it from contacting. I will take that off when I get a chance. Went for a test drive and viola! – no noise! The outer shoe holes also need to be done, but that will have to be at a later date.

Next up (possibly tomorrow) is a tune up with valve adjustment.


A little more work on the M100 completed

It was finally a nice day outside – and the most important part: I wasn’t working and didn’t have anything else that I HAD to do! It was 70deg and sunny on Feb 1st! Yesterday was nice too, but I had to do some maintenance on my daily driver before I could work on the Jeep or trailer.

Anyhow, today I started back on the M100. The main thing I wanted to do was finish the welding on the underside of it and get it primed. Well, the welding went pretty quick and so did the priming. All I had was about 15 tacks to clean up along the side on the outside, a few to add to the inside and a few to fix along the crossmembers (that I messed up by NOT starting with clean metal – hey, I’m NOT a welder!). Once those were done, I sprayed on some primer to keep the rust at bay. I still had plenty of time left this afternoon, so why stop there?2016-02-01 15.28.38




I disassembled the drawbars from the lunette casting and installed them on the tub.

2016-02-01 15.28.26

Still had a couple of hours before dark, so I thought I would mate the running gear back with the tub – but how to do it by yourself? I started by bolting the rear spring hangers up with the tub standing on end on a slight hill.

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After that, I lifted the running gear up into position and had to use a floor jack to push the spring pivot up in order for the upper mounts to line up with the their holes – pretty complicated without 5 hands! Once bolted up I installed the lunette casting and landing leg.

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Now, my next step will be to pretty up my welds on the front panel and do a few spot welds on the inside to make sure the floor stays in place.

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Then I can sand down the outside and throw a coat of paint on the whole thing, install the wiring and install new tires/tubes.

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