That’s AMAZING! I never would’ve thought that my page would ever see this much traffic. This many views makes me think that I might be doing something right. I hope that this blog will continue to be of some help to everyone. Even though I have a new project, THIS Jeep will continue to be a project also and I will update this blog whenever I do something to or with it.
My new blog 1964 USMC M38a1 Rebuild will obviously be updated more often because I am actively working on rebuilding it to “Motor Pool Ready” condition.
Thank you for the support and don’t forget to hit the “Follow” button on the new blog also!
OK, so I really couldn’t integrate a bunch of new posts into this old blog on the new page(the only explanation I got , in a nasty tone, was “this is a blog site, not a website”. So I started a new blog titled “1964 USMC M38a1 Rebuild”. You can find this blog by clicking the link at the end of this entry. Don’t forget to click the “Follow” button so that you will get an email when I add new entries to the blog.
1964 USMC M38a1 Rebuild
I started yesterday – put the batteries in and rigged up a fuel line with a funnel for feeding the gas. It would fire off with ether, but wouldn’t run from the carb.
First start video
UPDATE! New page about the 1964 USMC M38a1 . Or click on the link at the top of the page.
More info and pics coming soon – stay tuned.
I had a chance to stop by the local NAPA to get the rest of the parts I needed. I got 1′ of 1/4″ copper tubing for the main vacuum line because it is easier to bend without kinking and doesn’t really need a steel one. I also picked up a 20″ x 3/16″ brake line and elbow for the other vacuum line coming from the wiper tee. And lastly, I picked up 2-1/8″MIP x 1/4″FIP fittings for the flex fuel line and main vacuum line hookups. I picked up the 1/4″ close nipple at Lowes.
I screwed the 1/4″ nipple on the female end of the flex hose and screwed it into the main fuel line shutoff valve – tightened down with a 1/2″ stubby wrench. I screwed the elbow into the fuel line inlet and connected the male end to it.
Next, I moved on to the main copper vacuum “S” line. Guess what? It is 5/16″, NOT 1/4″! Plus, you will need 13″, if not 14″, to make a neat “S” bend. Alrighty then – on to the other vacuum line. Guess what? It is 1/4″, NOT 3/16″!
Well at least I accomplished something today – I got the fuel hooked up! I pumped the primer handle a few times to fill the line, jumped in, set the choke and throttle and turned her over. After a few seconds, she fired right up. I had to plug the vacuum line to get a good idle of course. Well, I guess I’ll stop by the parts store on the way home tomorrow and hopefully get the CORRECT parts this time! Note to self: 1/4″x 20″ steel line, 5/16″x 14″ line (copper or steel), whatever size elbow fits the 1/4″ line.
I finally had a little bit of spare time (and good weather) to get started on installing MY military fuel pump. I think I spent more time removing the old rubber fuel lines and hard lines than I spent installing the new pump. They were all formed to the barbed fittings and did NOT want to come off – I ended up cutting one of them.
One of the problems I THOUGHT I had was a bad fuel pump lobe on the cam, so while the pump was off I checked it. Turns out that it was good and smooth! Go figure. I don’t know what I was looking at when I installed the civvy pump back in 2012.
I put some assembly lube on the fuel pump foot before I installed it on the engine. Midwest sent 2 gaskets with the pump, so I put black RTV on the block, a gasket, RTV on both sides of the spacer, gasket, then RTV on the pump body. I used the LONG hex body bolt on the left side and the SHORT hex body bolt on the right (because a long one wouldn’t fit behind the primer lever). I used the bolts to hold all of the gaskets and spacer together long enough to start them in the block. I used a 1/4″ ratchet with a deep well 1/2″ socket on the left and a standard socket on the right, but had to tighten it up with a stubby wrench.
Moving on to connecting the lines. The original 1/4″ steel line going to the carb was still in use with the civvy pump – it was just bent 90 deg. So I installed the 1/4″ elbow in the pump, bent the line back and tightened it up. Unfortunately, that is all that I was able to do today. I will have to stop by the auto parts place to pick up a 20″ piece of 3/16″ steel line and elbow for the vacuum line to w/s wiper tee, a 1/4″ elbow and a 1/4″ male to male adapter for the flex fuel line, and a 1/4″x 12″ steel line and elbow for the manifold to pump vacuum line.
One last thing that I did (that is bugging the crap out of me), is to shorten the rubber hose running from the valve cover bell to the PCV valve. I had to put the bell in the vise and apply heat to get the elbows to move. I know that it STILL isn’t correct, but until I can look for the correct fittings it will have to do. Those hose clamps make it look really bad! My sealing job on the bell looks bad also, but the way I do it never leaks.
I am almost finished buying the parts I know I will need when I rebuild my engine. I know that I am going to be replacing the valve guides and at least one exhaust valve. I started looking around for a replacement valve, but couldn’t find one like I had (different lock cutout for the roto valve system). I finally located one at one of the main online jeep parts dealers. BUT, they wanted $23 + shipping – FOR 1 VALVE!
I located a pair of NOS Willys valves in the original tube on eBay for $10, but they were in Italy. So I contacted the seller. He said he would ship to the US for $18. By the time we established this, someone had already used Buy It Now. So I contacted the seller again – he said he had more and would list them. When he listed them I noticed that the price had doubled to $20 – and used the same picture. What the hell, still cheaper than buying 2 valves from the US – including shipping! Anyhow, I received the package today, and this is what I received!
BTW, there are 2 valves in the NOS Willys tube also! That’s right, I got 4 NOS Willys valves, delivered gym Italy, for $40! It would’ve cost $40 to get just 1 valve delivered in the US! That is ridiculous – price gouging. Now I can do it right and replace all of my valves and guides when I rebuild my engine.
I guess the next thing I need to do is find a machine shop to check the block and do what needs to be done. Then I can order my rings (hopefully I won’t have to buy pistons) and bearings. I guess I could go ahead and order the gasket set and water pump. The head has already been rebuilt, waiting to be installed.