I finally got around to putting the carb I rebuilt months ago on the Jeep today! I took the old one off – no problem, except that one of the manifold studs came out in the process. I tried everything I knew of to get the nut off of that thing so that I could re-use it, but it wasn’t going to happen! I had all but given up when I remembered the rebuilt head I had sitting up on the shelf. I went and checked – YEP, it had both studs in it! I put a second nut on that stud and pulled it out. I put a dab of Loctite on it and installed it in my manifold and put everything back together.
I hit the starter and turned her over a couple of times to get some gas in the bowl, then turned on the switch and she fired right off. Then died. After a couple of rounds of this to figure out how much choke and throttle to use, she was purring along at a high idle!
I let her warm up a couple of minutes, then took off up the driveway. I got her good and warm and then went back to the shop. After a little fine tuning and adjusting the throttle and choke stops, she was idling at a low idle without the miss that has been present since I fired her up for the first time over a year ago!
I took her for a ride up the driveway again, and she now has a good bit more power – I can spin the tires without a problem, and catch second (this is on a dirt driveway, mind you!)!
Then I fixed the hand throttle that wouldn’t hold. I tuned it a little in the dash hole and straightened out the cable a little – works fine now! Then we took her for a spin around the field – a fast one! She did great! We went out on the highway for a short distance too (I didn’t have my driver’s license with me) – I was able to get her up to 35 in second before I had to turn into the driveway.
I still have the hesitation when I blip the throttle – may be a timing issue. My windshield wipers work much better now also – must have had a vacuum leak in the other carb. I also have that annoying bellcrank problem (death wobble) I need to do something about. And, of course, the puking rear pinion seal!
Well, that’s about it for today – back to work tomorrow night!
I was out in the shop doing some other work yesterday and looked over at the Jeep. I couldn’t remember how long it had been since I took her out on the road. After I finished what I was doing, I jumped in, turned on the switch, pulled the choke and hit the starter. After about 15 seconds of cranking, she fired up. I pulled her out of the shop and let her warm up. I took off up the road and drove around for about 10 minutes. During the drive, I remembered that the bellcrank was loose – after I hit a bump in the road and had a shimmy. I also smelled some burning oil and attributed that to the rear axle pinion seal leaking, throwing oil onto the exhaust.
I got back to the house and parked her. A couple of hours later, my daughter wanted to go to the field and drive the Jeep. We jumped in, she fired right up and we drove to the field. We switched seats, I threw the Jeep in low range, second gear and pulled out the hand throttle. She drove around for about 10 minutes or so, then we switched seats again and we drove back to the house. No problems except for the known issues that I need to jump on pretty soon – the rally is getting closer by the minute (24 days left!).
I need to put my rebuilt carb on, fix the bellcrank, and get the rear end checked and resealed.
The power feed is installed and wired up. I still have to find some insulated metal cable clamps and install them though. I started out by acquiring 8′ of 6 gauge stranded wire (everybody had red, but I needed black of course! That stuff was $1.60/ft! I bought a crimp on ring terminal and some shrink tubing too. I crimped the terminal to one end, then soldered it and put shrink tubing over it. Next, I decided on how long to make the wire by running it through the back side of the battery box and fishing it to the plug. Then I soldered the female end on and assembled the plug. I drilled a hole down through the tool box and ran the ground wire into the toolbox and installed a grommet. The ground wire attaches to the left seat pivot bolt. I installed the plug into the bracket and hooked and hooked up the power.
I checked the power – 25v.
Then I ohmed out the MT299 wiring before I plugged it in – everything checked out. I plugged the power cord in and checked for voltage at the power wire on the mount – 25v. I unplugged it and installed the power supply and rt67. I plugged it back up and turned the power supply on – no lights or gauge movement! I turned it off so I wouldn’t burn it up. I turned it back on after a minute and started playing with the dial on the radio. After about 15 seconds the lights came on! I I turned the band dial and the power meter moved! I turned the power supply switch to send and receive and the radio to ring and it acted like it was sending a ring signal – if that makes sense (I know what I’m talking about). I turned it back off, unplugged the power and switched in the rt68. Same thing – everything seems to work!
Next, I put my wood blocks that I laid off the wheel well channels and hole locations on yesterday. I located the mount and blocks in the location given by some of the guys on Willysmjeeps website. It seems like it sticks out into the cargo area more than it should, but I am going to find out for sure before I drill any holes or cut the channels in the spacer blocks.
I know – it’s blurry.
That’s it for this update.
Well I got the MT-299 finished. I wired up the new power wire to the junction box and mounted the box back on the mount.
I finally found some oak for the spacer blocks too – I just need to cut them, glue them together, plane them down and mill out the holes and slots. I still haven’t found any 6 gauge wire for the Jeep power feed (Carquest had the right stuff, but only had 4′ of it – of course!).
I’ve worked on my new project a little today, so I didn’t get anything done on the Jeep. I started a new blog about it
After 4 days of painting, which includes getting out to the shop before work the past two mornings, the radio mount now has two coats of OD24087 on it. I know, I know (for you purists and perfectionists) – it is supposed to be painted OD2430. The reason it isn’t: I would have had to order the spray paint from one of the main vendors. I could have bought it from TM-9 Ordnance at $13/can + shipping (prob $40 total for 2 cans) and had the perfect color, or Gillespie from a couple of other vendors at $6.50/can + $11 shipping ($24 for 2 cans of paint). I used the Gillespie OD24087 because I already had 1/2 case of spray cans. Only the purists will know the difference.
Yesterday morning and this morning I sprayed the legs and the underside of the tray (with clear – it had varnish on it when I got it and inside of the junction box, so I went back with that. I put everything back together after work tonight, and I think it looks pretty good! The main thing that bothers me is that you can’t see the data plate on it – in fact, I couldn’t even get a picture of it! All of that work to make that plate all pretty – for nothing!
I’ve already figured out how to install the new power wire. The positive wire goes to the fuse and the ground (which was originally the outer wire shielding twisted together and tinned at the tip) goes to the common bus. I’ll take good pics of the junction box next week when I install that wire. I have acquired the 8 gauge power feed wire and will be installing that next week also. I still need to find some red oak and make the spacers to install the mount.
I also contacted an old friend about rebuilding (or just adjusting and changing the seals) the rear end, since I don’t have time to do it while working all of this overtime – AND the rally is 2 months from now (and I have alot of other stuff that I need to do in the next 2 months).
I just realized when I uploaded the old picture the I installed the legs on the wrong sides – oh well, something to do tomorrow after work!
I installed the radio power feed bracket to start with. Then I moved on to the MT-299. There was alot of paint on that thing – and most of it was chipped up!
First, I removed the junction box, by removing the two screws on top. Then, I was able to get the mounting legs off by removing the two screws on top and the two screws on the back. That made it easier to strip the paint off of the top of the mount. I had some old paint stripper that I found in the shop (I’d say it is about 7 years old). There was a hole in the side of the can, and it was supposed to be a thick brushable paste, but it was just liquid. It worked though!
After about 3 applications and scrapings, she was clean. I didn’t do the underside because it looked good, and was just coated with lacquer.
I sprayed two coats of red oxide on them even though it didn’t have any from the factory.
Next, I disassembled the mounting legs and hand sanded them. I wasn’t able to get one side apart though – it won’t get as pretty of a paint job as the other side. I did find the original tag on the leg I was able to disassemble. It took alot of stripper, mineral spirits and elbow grease to get the paint off of it without removing the black paint on the tag. Then I sprayed them with two coats of red oxide.
That’s it for today. Maybe tomorrow I can go find some wire for the power feed and install that. Oh yeah, I did disassemble my replacement power cord and figured out how I will have to hook it up to the junction box.
Now, to find some Signal Corps OD green to paint this stuff!
I got the parts for my radio power feed today. First thing I did was go out and take the plug shell apart and take the positive wire stub out of the rubber grommet (I had to use a propane torch and heat up the terminal until the wire came out). Then I covered the parts with stripper and let them sit for awhile. I took some scotchbrite and took most of the black paint off of them to try to get it down to the anodizing. After the second coat, they were down to the metal and aluminum – there was a little anodizing left. Then I put two coats of OD on them. I will install the power feed bracket and the speaker bracket tomorrow. I used the hole locations off of my parts Jeep to mark them on my Jeep.
You can see the terminal I removed with the wire stub beside it at the bottom. The speaker braket is to the right of the wire. The power feed bracket is above the speaker bracket, and or course, the power feed plug is on the left. It still has its ground wire attached and in decent shape, so I’ll leave it. I’ll have to find a 10gauge (or maybe 8?) wire for the power wire at the electrical supply maybe.
UPS delivered my new MT-299 and LS-166/U speaker a little while ago. I just couldn’t stand it! I had to take it out to the shop and see what the radio set looked like on the Jeep. Setup was pretty easy – I had to move my axe to put it on the right wheelwell though. The radio slid in and clamped down easily, except for one clamp – I’ll have to see what is going on there. The power supply was hard to clamp down – I figure that is because it is new and tight. The power cables both fit at the correct angles. I am happy with the purchase!
I am going to have to check my parts Jeep to get the exact location of the mount on the wheelwell. I’m pretty sure the holes are still there. I have this set sitting as far forward as I can without the front seat hitting the radio. The only problem I see with it is that it does take up some of the rear room. The seat wont fold up with it there.
Things to do on this VRC-9 radio set: 1)Find exact location, 2)Make a pair of red oak mounting blocks using diagram on Willysmjeeps, 3)Refinish the MT-299, 4)Replace the power cord, 5) Install power feed from the batteries and 5)run the antenna wire. I am going to have to buy a new CX-1211 “dogbone” – mine has a split in the boot. And I still need a CW-330 cover for the set.
I traded another Willysmjeeps member a few spare parts that I had for a speaker bracket and a power feed shell connector with bracket. I will have to replace the positive cable, but the ground wire is still there. I should get those parts in the mail in a few days
I received a “y” cable last week that looks like it will adapt the old “large” connectors to the new style “small” hand mic and headphone connectors. I paid $15 for this cable – hopefully it will save me the price of buying an H-33 (old style) handset and H-161 headset. Here’s a pic of that setup:
Now, maybe I’ll be able get around to working on it one day this week while I’m off.
I was able to get out to the shop today to take a few pis of my new radios and accessories today.
The first is all of the equipment together. From the left: RT-67 Artillery and PP-112 Power Supply. The radio is in very good condition and the power supply is excellent! On top is an antenna cable and an H250/U handset. Notice that the radio has RT-68 knobs.
Next pic is the RT-68 Infantry Radio, PP-112 power supply. The radio is in fair condition (paint wise), and the power supply is in good condition. There is an AB-15 antenna base on an unknown mounting and an unknown headset for a VRC radio set. There are 2 antenna mast sections (MS-117 and AB-24)in front of the set. Notice that the radio has RT-67 knobs. Mike must have gotten mixed up putting them back together? Or maybe he just wanted to put the nicer ones on the nicer radio – I don’t know.
Last pic is the PP-109 power supply. It is used to power the radio sets in a 12v vehicle. Some of the other cables included (on top of the PP-109) are a power cable and a control box interconnect cable. The dogbone cable is installed between the RT-67 and PP-112. You can also see the antenna base, headset and cables more completely in this shot.
I’ve been looking around and found the correct handset (H-33/PT) and a speaker (LS-166/U). I don’t know what the correct headset is for this type of set yet. I am still very new to the military radio thing and there is ALOT to learn yet! I know the basic setup (mount, radio, power supply, interconnect cable and antenna base ans mast sections), but the different cables and accessories and their uses are yet to be learned.
There is still a MAJOR purchase left if I am going to mount one of these in the Jeep – the MT-299 mount! I have located a couple of them – waiting on the guys to give me a price.
If anybody reading this post has accessories, cables or a mount, please let me know.
It’s been a while since I’ve posted anything, so I thought I would throw out a quick update.
I still haven’t hooked up my new air compressor to sandblast my M100. Nor have I rebuilt the bellcrank. I haven’t put my rebuilt carb on yet or checked the rear end! I haven’t even so much as cranked her up in the past 3 weeks! Between work, vacation and alot of overtime (i’m not complaining about the overtime), I havent had time for the family, much less any hobbies!
With that said, I Mandy and I did go pick up some new additions (accessories) for the Jeep on Saturday. I got them from a fellow g503 forum member. I bought an RT-67 (artillery) and an RT-68 (infantry) radios along with (2) pp112 (24v) power supplies and a pp109 (12v) power supply. He also threw in an ab15 and unknown mount, headset, handset, dogbone, and 5 or 6 cables. They aren’t in great shape outside, but inside looks great! I might strip and repaint the case anyway. I think I got a decent deal on them. He said they were working when they were mounted in his M38. Now, to find an mt-299 mount!
I will take some pics in the next couple of days and post them.
Thats all for now!